What I Saw in California
by Edwin Bryant
Part 5.
Chapters 30-38:
To Southern California
and Back,
November 13, 1846-June 1847.
Leave New Helvetia – Pleasant weather – Meet Indian volunteers – Tule-boats – Engagement between a party of Americans and Californians – Death of Capt. Burroughs and Capt. Foster – Capture of Thomas O. Larkin – Reconnaissance – San Juan Bautista – Neglect of the dead – Large herds of Cattle – Join Col. Fremont.
On my arrival at New Helvetia, I found there Mr. Jacob. Mr. Reed had not
yet returned from the mountains. Nothing had been heard from Mr. Lippincott,
or Mr. Grayson, since I left the latter at Sonoma. An authorized agent of
Col. Fremont had arrived at the fort the day that I left it, with power to
take the caballada of public horses, and to enroll volunteers for the
expedition to the south. He had left two or three days before my arrival,
taking with him all the horses and trappings suitable for service, and all
the men who had previously rendezvoused at the fort, numbering about sixty,
as I understood. At my request messengers were sent by Mr. Kern, commandant
of the fort, and by Captain Sutter, to the Indian chiefs on the San Joaquin
River and its tributaries, to meet me at the most convenient points on the
trail, with such warriors of their tribes as chose to volunteer as soldiers
of the United States, and perform military service during the campaign. I
believed that they would be useful as scouts and spies. On the 14th and 15th
eight men (emigrants who had just arrived in the country, and had been
enrolled at Johnson’s settlement by Messrs. Reed and Jacob) arrived at the
fort; and on the morning of the 16th, with these, we started to join Colonel
Fremont, supposed to be at Monterey; and we encamped at night on the Cosçumne
River.
The weather is now pleasant. We are occasionally drenched with a shower
of rain, after which the sun shines warm and bright; the fresh grass is
springing up, and the birds sing and chatter in the groves and thickets as
we pass through them. I rode forward, on the morning of the 17th, to the
Mickélemes River (twenty-five miles from
the Cosçumne), where I met Antonio, an
Indian chief, with twelve warriors, who had assembled here for the purpose
of joining us. The names of the warriors were as follows; – Santiago, Masua,
Kiubu, Tocoso, Nonelo, Michael, Weala, Arkell, Nicolas, Heel, Kasheano,
Estephen. Our party coming up in the afternoon, we encamped here for the
day, in order to give the Indians time to make further preparations for the
march. On the 18th we met, at the ford of the San Joaquin River, another
party of eighteen Indians, including their chiefs. Their names were – José
Jesus, Filipe, Raymundo, and Carlos, chiefs; Huligario, Bonefasio,
Francisco, Nicolas, Pablo, Feliciano, San Antonio, Polinario, Manuel,
Graviano, Salinordio, Romero, and Merikeeldo, warriors. The chiefs and some
of the warriors of these parties were partially clothed, but most of them
were naked, except a small garment around the loins. They were armed with
bows and arrows. We encamped with our sable companions on the east bank of
the San Joaquin.
The next morning (Nov. 19), the river being too high to ford, we
constructed, by the aid of the Indians, tule-boats, upon which our baggage
was ferried over the stream. The tule-boat consists of bundles of tule
firmly bound together with willow withes. When completed, in shape it is not
unlike a small keel-boat. The buoyancy of one of these craft is surprising.
Six men, as many as could sit upon the deck, were passed over, in the
largest of our three boats, at a time. The boats were towed backwards and
forwards by Indian swimmers – one at the bow, and one at the stern as
steersman, and two on each side as propellers. The poor fellows, when they
came out of the cold water, trembled as if attacked with an ague. We
encamped near the house of Mr. Livermore (previously described), where,
after considerable difficulty, I obtained sufficient beef for supper, Mr. L.
being absent. Most of the Indians did not get into camp until a late hour of
the night, and some of them not until morning. They complained very much of
sore feet, and wanted horses to ride, which I promised them as soon as they
reached the Pueblo de San José.
About ten o’clock on the morning of the 20th, we slaughtered a beef in
the hills between Mr. Livermore’s and the mission of San José;
and, leaving the hungry party to regale themselves upon it and then follow
on, I proceeded immediately to the Pueblo de San José
to make further arrangements, reaching that place just after sunset. On the
21st I procured clothing for the Indians, which, when they arrived with Mr.
Jacob in the afternoon, was distributed among them.
On my arrival at the Pueblo, I found the American population there much
excited by intelligence just received of the capture on the 15th, between
Monterey and the mission of San Juan, of Thos. O. Larkin, Esq., late U.S.
Consul in California, by a party of Californians, and of an engagement
between the same Californians and a party of Americans escorting a caballada
of 400 horses to Colonel Fremont’s camp in Monterey. In this affair three
Americans were killed, viz.: Capt. Burroughs, Capt. Foster, and Mr. Eames,
late of St. Louis, Mo. The mission of San Juan lies on the road between the
Pueblo de San José and Monterey, about
fifty miles from the former place, and thirty from the latter. The skirmish
took place ten miles south of San Juan, near the Monterey road. I extract
the following account of this affair from a journal of his captivity
published by Mr. Larkin: –
"On the 15th of November, from information received of the sickness of my
family in San Francisco, where they had gone to escape the expected
revolutionary troubles in Monterey, and from letters from Captain Montgomery
requesting my presence respecting some stores for the Portsmouth, I, with
one servant, left Monterey for San Francisco, knowing that for one month no
Californian forces had been within 100 miles of us. That night I put up at
the house of Don Joaquin Gomez, sending my servant to San Juan, six miles
beyond, to request Mr. J. Thompson to wait for me, as he was on the road for
San Francisco. About midnight I was aroused from my bed by the noise made by
ten Californians (unshaved and unwashed for months, being in the mountains)
rushing into my chamber with guns, swords, pistols, and torches in their
hands. I needed but a moment to be fully awake and know my exact situation;
the first cry was, 'Como estamos, Senor Consul.' 'Vamos, Senor Larkin.' At
my bedside were several letters that I had re-read before going to bed. On
dressing myself, while my captors were saddling my horse, I assorted these
letters, and put them into different pockets. After taking my own time to
dress and arrange my valise, we started, and rode to a camp of seventy or
eighty men on the banks of the Monterey River; there each officer and
principal person passed the time of night with me, and a remark or two. The commandante took me on one side, and informed me that his people demanded
that I should write to San Juan, to the American captain of volunteers,
saying that I had left Monterey to visit the distressed families of the
river, and request or demand that twenty men should meet me before daylight,
that I could station them, before my return to town, in a manner to protect
these families. The natives, he said, were determined on the act being
accomplished. I at first endeavoured to reason with him on the infamy and
the impossibility of the deed, but to no avail; he said my life depended on
the letter; that he was willing, nay, anxious to preserve my life as an old
acquaintance, but could not control his people in this affair. From argument
I came to a refusal; he advised, urged, and demanded. At this period an
officer called out * * * * (Come here, those who are named.) I then said, "In
this manner you may act and threaten night by night; my life on such
condition is of no value or pleasure to me. I am by accident your prisoner –
make the most of me – write, I will not; shoot as you see fit, and I am done
talking on the subject."’ I left him, and went to the camp fire. For a
half-hour or more there was some commotion around me, when all disturbance
subsided.
"At daylight we started, with a flag flying and a drum beating, and
travelled eight or ten miles, when we camped in a low valley or hollow.
There they caught with the lasso three or four head of cattle belonging to
the nearest rancho, and breakfasted. The whole day their outriders rode in
every direction, on the look-out, to see if the American company left the
mission of San Juan, or Lieutenant-Colonel Fremont left Monterey; they also
rode to all the neighboring ranchos, and forced the rancheros to join them.
At one o’clock, they began their march with one hundred and thirty men (and
two or three hundred extra horses); they marched in four single files,
occupying four positions, myself under charge of an officer and five or six
men in the centre. Their plan of operation for the night was, to rush into
San Juan ten or fifteen men, who were to retreat, under the expectation that
the Americans would follow them, in which case the whole party outside was
to cut them off. I was to be retained in the centre of the party. Ten miles
south of the mission, they encountered eight or ten Americans, a part of
whom retreated into a low ground covered with oaks, the others returned to
the house of Senor Gomez, to alarm their companions. For over one hour the
hundred and thirty Californians surrounded the six or eight Americans,
occasionally giving and receiving shots. During this period, I was several
times requested, then commanded, to go among the oaks and bring out my
countrymen, and offer them their lives on giving up their rifles and
persons. I at last offered to go and call them out, on condition that they
should return to San Juan or go to Monterey, with their arms; this being
refused, I told the commandante to go in and bring them out himself. While
they were consulting how this could be done, fifty Americans came down on
them, which caused an action of about twenty or thirty minutes. Thirty or
forty of the natives leaving the field at the first fire, they remained
drawn off by fives and tens until the Americans had the field to themselves.
Both parties remained within a mile of each other until dark. Our countrymen
lost Captain Burroughs of St. Louis, Missouri, Captain Foster, and two
others, with two or three wounded. The Californians lost two of their
countrymen, and José Garcia, of Val.,
Chili, with seven wounded."
The following additional particulars I extract from the "Californian"
newspaper of November 21, 1846, published at Monterey: "Burroughs and Foster
were killed at the first onset. The Americans fired, and then charged on the
enemy with their empty rifles, and ran them off. However, they still kept
rallying, and firing now and then a musket at the Americans until about
eleven o’clock at night, when one of the Walla-Walla Indians offered his
services to come into Monterey and give Colonel Fremont notice of what was
passing. Soon after he started he was pursued by a party of the enemy. The
foremost in pursuit drove a lance at the Indian, who, trying to parry it,
received the lance through his hand; he immediately, with his other hand,
seized his tomahawk, and struck his opponent, splitting his head from the
crown to the mouth. By this time the others had come up, and, with the most
extraordinary dexterity and bravery, the Indian vanquished two more, and the
rest ran away. He rode on towards this town as far as his horse was able to
carry him, and then left his horse and saddle, and came in on foot. He
arrived here about eight o’clock on Tuesday morning, December 17th.
The Americans engaged in this affair were principally the volunteer
emigrants just arrived in the country, and who had left New Helvetia a few
days in advance of me.
Colonel Fremont marched from Monterey as soon as he heard of this
skirmish, in pursuit of the Californians, but did not meet with them. He
then encamped at the mission of San Juan, waiting there the arrival of the
remaining volunteers from above.
Leaving the Pueblo on the afternoon of the 25th, in conjunction with a
small force commanded by Captain Weber, we made an excursion into the hills,
near a rancho owned by Captain W., where were herded some two or three
hundred public horses. It had been rumoured that a party of Californians
were hovering about here, intending to capture and drive off these horses.
The next day (November 26th), without having met any hostile force, driving
these horses before us, we encamped at Mr. Murphy’s rancho. Mr. Murphy is
the father of a large and respectable family, who emigrated to this country
some three or four years since from the United States, being originally from
Canada. His daughter, Miss Helen, who did the honours of the rude cabin, in
manners, conversation, and personal charms, would grace any drawing-room. On
the 28th, we proceeded down the Pueblo valley, passing Gilroy’s rancho, and
reaching the mission of San Juan just before dark. The hills and valleys are
becoming verdant with fresh grass and wild oats, the latter being, in
places, two or three inches high. So tender is it, however, that it affords
but little nourishment to our horses.
The mission of San Juan Bautista has been one of the most extensive of
these establishments. The principal buildings are more durably constructed
than those of other missions I have visited, and they are in better
condition. Square bricks are used in paving the corridors and the ground
floors. During the twilight, I strayed accidentally through a half-opened
gate into a cemetery, inclosed by a high wall in the rear of the church. The
spectacle was ghastly enough. The exhumed skeletons of those who had been
deposited here lay thickly strewn around, showing but little respect for the
sanctity of the grave, or the rights of the dead from the living. The cool
damp night – breeze sighed and moaned through the shrubbery and ruinous
arches and corridors, planted and reared by those whose neglected bones were
now exposed to the rude insults of man and beast. I could not but imagine
that the voices of complaining spirits mingled with these dismal and
mournful tones; and plucking a cluster of roses, the fragrance of which was
delicious, I left the spot, to drive away the sadness and melancholy
produced by the scene.
The valley contiguous to the mission is extensive, well watered by a
large arroyo, and highly fertile. The gardens and other lands for tillage
are inclosed by willow hedges. Elevated hills, or mountains, bound this
valley on the east and west. Large herds of cattle were scattered over the
valley, greedily cropping the fresh green herbage, which now carpets
mountain and plain.
Colonel Fremont marched from San Juan this morning, and encamped, as we
learned on our arrival, ten miles south. Proceeding up the arroyo on the
29th, we reached the camp of Colonel F. about noon. I immediately reported,
and delivered over to him the men and horses under my charge. The men were
afterwards organized into a separate corps, of which Mr. R. T. Jacob, my
travelling companion, was appointed the captain by Colonel Fremont.
California battalion – Their appearance and costume List of officers – Commence our march to Los Angeles – Appearance of the country in the vicinity of San Juan – Slaughter of beeves – Astonishing consumption of beef by the men – Beautiful morning – Ice – Salinas river and valley – Californian prisoners – Horses giving out from fatigue – Mission of San Miguel – Sheep – Mutton – March on foot – More prisoners taken – Death of Mr. Stanley – An execution – Dark night – Capture of the mission of San Luis Obispo – Orderly conduct and good deportment of the California battalion.
November 30. – The battalion of mounted riflemen, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Fremont, numbers, rank and file, including Indians, and servants, 428. With the exception of the exploring party, which left the United States with Colonel F., they are composed of volunteers from the American settlers, and the emigrants who have arrived in the country within a few weeks. The latter have generally furnished their own ammunition and other equipments for the expedition. Most of these are practised riflemen, men of undoubted courage, and capable of bearing any fatigue and privations endurable by veteran troops. The Indians are composed of a party of Walla-Wallas from Oregon, and a party of native Californians. Attached to the battalion are two pieces of artillery, under the command of Lieutenant McLane, of the navy. In the appearance of our small army there is presented but little of "the pomp and circumstance of glorious war." There are no plumes nodding over brazen helmets, nor coats of broadcloth spangled with lace and buttons. A broad-brimmed low-crowned hat, a shirt of blue flannel, or buckskin, with pantaloons and mocassins of the same, all generally much the worse for wear, and smeared with mud and dust, make up the costume of the party, officers as well as men. A leathern girdle surrounds the waist, from which are suspended a bowie and a hunter’s knife, and sometimes a brace of pistols. These, with the rifle and holster-pistols, are the arms carried by officers and privates. A single bugle (and a sorry one it is) composes the band. Many an embryo Napoleon, in his own conceit, whose martial spirit has been excited to flaming intensity of heat by the peacock-plumage and gaudy trappings of our militia companies, when marching through the streets to the sound of drum, fife, and brass band, if he could have looked upon us, and then consulted the state of the military thermometer within him, would probably have discovered that the mercury of his heroism had fallen several degrees below zero. He might even have desired that we should not come.
"Between the wind and his nobility."
War, stripped of its pageantry, possesses but few of the attractions with which poetry and painting have embellished it. The following is a list of the officers: –
List of Officers composing the California Battalion.
Lieutenant-colonel J. C.
Fremont, commanding; A. H. Gillespie, major; P. B. Reading, paymaster; Henry
King, commissary; J. R. Snyder, quartermaster, since appointed a
land-surveyor by Colonel Mason; Wm. H. Russell, ordnance officer; T. Talbot,
lieutenant and adjutant; J. J. Myers, sergeant-major, appointed lieutenant
in January, 1847.
Company A. – Richard Owens, captain; Wm. N. Loker, 1st lieutenant,
appointed adjutant, Feb. 10th, 1847; B. M. Hudspeth, 2d lieutenant,
appointed captain, Feb. 1847; Wm. Findlay, 2d lieutenant, appointed captain,
Feb. 1847.
Company B. – Henry Ford, captain; Andrew Copeland, 1st lieutenant.
Company C. – Granville P. Swift, captain; Wm. Baldridge, 1st lieutenant; Wm.
Hartgrove, 2d do.
Company D. – John Sears, captain; Wm. Bradshaw, 1st lieutenant.
Company E. – John Grisby, captain; Archibald Jesse, 1st lieutenant.
Company F. – L. W. Hastings, captain (author of a work on California); Wornbough, 1st lieutenant; J. M. Hudspeth, 2d do,
Company G. – Thompson, captain; Davis 1st lieutenant; Rock, 2d do.
Company H. – R. T. Jacobs, captain; Edwin Bryant, 1st lieutenant (afterwards
alcalde at San Francisco); Geo. M. Lippincott, 2d do., of New York.
Artillery Company. – Louis McLane, captain (afterwards major); John K.
Wilson, 1st lieutenant, appointed captain in January, 1847; Wm. Blackburn,
2d do. (now alcalde of Santa Cruz).
Officers on detached service and doing duty at the South.
S. Hensley, captain; S. Gibson, do. (lanced through the body at San Pascual); Miguel Pedrorena, do., Spaniard (appointed by Stockton); Stgo. Arguello, do., Californian (appointed by do.); Bell, do. (appointed by do.), old resident of California (Los Angeles); H. Rhenshaw, 1st lieutenant, (appointed by do.); A. Godey, do. (appointed by do.); Jas. Barton, do. (appointed by do.); L. Arguello, do., Californian (appointed by do.)
After a march of six or eight hours, up the valley of the arroyo, through
a heavy rain, and mud so deep that several of our horses gave out from
exhaustion, we encamped in a circular bottom, near a deserted adobe house. A
caballada of some 500 or 600 loose horses and mules is driven along with us,
but many of them are miserable sore-backed skeletons, having been exhausted
with hard usage and bad fare during the summer campaign. Besides these, we
have a large number of pack-mules, upon which all our baggage and provisions
are transported. Distance 10 miles.
We did not move on the 1st and 2d of December. There being no cattle in
the vicinity of our camp, a party was sent back to the mission, on the
morning of the 1st, who in the afternoon returned, driving before them about
100 head, most of them in good condition. After a sufficient number were
slaughtered to supply the camp with meat for the day, the remainder were
confined in a corral prepared for the purpose, to be driven along with us,
and slaughtered from day to day. The rain has continued, with short
intermissions, since we commenced our march on the 30th of November. The
ground has become saturated with water, and the small branches are swollen
into large streams. Notwithstanding these discomforts, the men are in good
spirits, and enjoy themselves in singing, telling stories, and playing monte.
December 3. – The rain ceased falling about 8 o’clock this morning; and, the clouds breaking away, the sun cheered us once more with his pleasant beams. The battalion was formed into a hollow square, and, the order of the day being read, we resumed our march. Our progress, through the deep mud, was very slow. The horses were constantly giving out, and many were left behind. The young and tender grass upon which they feed affords but little nourishment, and hard labour soon exhausts them. We encamped on a low bluff, near the arroyo, timbered with evergreen oak. Distance 8 miles.
December 4. – I was ordered with a small party in advance this morning.
Proceeding up the valley a few miles, we left it, crossing several steep
hills sparsely timbered with oak, from which we descended into another small
valley, down which we continued to the point of its termination, near some
narrow and difficult mountain gorges. In exploring the gorges, we discovered
the trail of a party of Californians, which had passed south several days
before us, and found a horse which they had left in their march. This,
doubtless, was a portion of the party which captured Mr. Larkin, and had the
engagement between Monterey and St. Juan, on the 17th ult. The main body
coming up, we encamped at three o’clock. The old grass around our camp is
abundant; but having been so much washed by the rains, and consequently
exhausted of its nutritious qualities, the animals refused to eat it. The
country over which we have travelled to-day, and as far as I can see, is
mountainous and broken, little of it being adapted to other agricultural
purposes than grazing.
Thirteen beeves are slaughtered every afternoon for the consumption of
the battalion. These beeves are generally of good size, and in fair
condition. Other provisions being entirely exhausted, beef constitutes the
only subsistence for the men, and most of the officers. Under these
circumstances, the consumption of beef is astonishing. I do not know that I
shall be believed when I state a fact, derived from observation and
calculation, that the average consumption per man of fresh beef is at least
ten pounds per day. Many of them, I believe, consume much more, and some of
them less. Nor does this quantity appear to be injurious to health, or fully
to satisfy the appetite. I have seen some of the men roast their meat and
devour it by the fire from the hour of encamping until late bed-time. They
would then sleep until one or two o’clock in the morning, when, the cravings
of hunger being greater than the desire for repose, the same occupation
would be resumed, and continued until the order was given to march. The
Californian beef is generally fat, juicy, and tender, and surpasses in
flavour any which I ever tasted elsewhere. Distance 10 miles.
December 5. – I rose before daylight. The moon shone brightly. The
temperature was cold. The vapour in the atmosphere had congealed and fallen
upon the ground in feathery flakes, covering it with a
white-semi-transparent veil, or crystal sheen, sparkling in the moonbeams.
The smoke from the numerous camp-fires soon began to curl languidly up in
graceful wreaths, settling upon the mountain summits. The scene was one for
the pencil and brush of the artist; but, when the envious sun rose, he soon
stripped Madam Earth of her gauzy holiday morning-gown, and exposed her
every-day petticoat of mud.
Our march to-day has been one of great difficulty, through a deep brushy
mountain gorge, through which it was almost impossible to force the
field-pieces. In one place they were lowered with ropes down a steep and
nearly perpendicular precipice of great height and depth. We encamped about
three o’clock, P.M., in a small valley. Many of the horses gave out on the
march, and were left behind by the men, who came straggling into camp until
a late hour of the evening, bringing their saddles and baggage upon their
shoulders. I noticed, while crossing an elevated ridge of hills, flakes of
snow flying in the air, but melting before they reached the ground. The
small spring-branch on which we encamped empties into the Salinas River. The
country surrounding us is elevated and broken, and the soil sandy, with but
little timber or grass upon it. Distance 12 miles.
December 6. – Morning clear and cool. Crossed an undulating country, destitute of timber and water, and encamped in a circular valley surrounded by elevated hills, through which flows a small tributary of the Salinas. The summits of the mountains in sight are covered with snow, but the temperature in the valleys is pleasant. Distance 15 miles.
December 7. – Ice, the first I have seen since entering California, formed in the branch, of the thickness of window-glass. We reached the valley of the Salinas about eleven o’clock A.M., and encamped for the day. The river Salinas (laid down in some maps as Rio San Buenaventura) rises in the mountains to the south, and has a course of some sixty or eighty miles, emptying into the Pacific about twelve miles north of Monterey. The valley, as it approaches the ocean, is broad and fertile, and there are many fine ranchos upon it. But, higher up, the stream becomes dry in the summer, and the soil of the valley is arid and sandy. The width of the stream at this point is about thirty yards. Its banks are skirted by narrow belts of small timber. A range of elevated mountains rises between this valley and the coast. A courtmartial was held to-day, for the trial of sundry offenders. Distance 8 miles.
December 8. – Morning cool, clear, and pleasant. Two Californians were arrested by the rear-guard near a deserted rancho, and brought into camp. One of them turned out to be a person known to be friendly to the Americans. There has been but little variation in the soil or scenery. But few attempts appear to have been made to settle this portion of California . The thefts and hostilities of the Tular Indians are said to be one of the causes preventing its settlement. Distance 15 miles.
December 9. – The mornings are cool, but the middle of the day is too warm to ride comfortably with our coats on. Our march has been fatiguing and difficult, through several brushy ravines and over steep and elevated hills. Many horses gave out as usual, and were left, from inability to travel. Our caballada is diminishing rapidly. Distance 10 miles.
December 10. – Our march has been on the main beaten trail, dry and hard,
and over a comparatively level country. We passed the mission of San Miguel
about three o’clock, and encamped in a grove of large oak timber, three or
four miles south of it. This mission is situated on the upper waters of the
Salinas, in an extensive plain. Under the administration of the padres it
was a wealthy establishment, and manufactures of various kinds were carried
on. They raised immense numbers of sheep, the fleeces of which were
manufactured by the Indians into blankets and coarse cloths. Their granaries
were filled with an abundance of maize and frijoles, and their store-rooms
with other necessaries of life, from the ranchos belonging to the mission
lands in the vicinity. Now all the buildings, except the church and the
principal range of houses contiguous, have fallen into ruins, and an
Englishman, his wife, and one small child, with two or three Indian
servants, are the sole inhabitants. The church is the largest I have seen in
the country, and its interior is in good repair, although it has not
probably been used for the purpose of public worship for many years. The
Englishman professes to have purchased the mission and all the lands
belonging to it for 300 dollars.
Our stock of cattle being exhausted, we feasted on Californian mutton,
sheep being more abundant than cattle at this mission. The wool, I noticed,
was coarse, but the mutton was of an excellent quality. The country over
which we have travelled to-day shows the marks of long drought previous to
the recent rains. The soil is sandy and gravelly, and the dead vegetation
upon it is thin and stunted. About eighty of our horses are reported to have
given out and been left behind. Distance 20 miles.
December 12. – To relieve our horses, which are constantly giving out from exhaustion, the grass being insufficient for their sustenance while performing labour, the entire battalion, officers and men, were ordered to march on foot, turning their horses, with the saddles and bridles upon them, into the general caballada, to be driven along by the horse-guard. The day has been drizzly, cold, and disagreeable. The country has a barren and naked appearance; but this, I believe, is attributable to the extreme drought that has prevailed in this region for one or two years past. We encamped near the rancho of a friendly Californian – the man who was taken prisoner the other day and set at large. An Indian, said to be the servant of Tortoria Pico, was captured here by the advance party. A letter was found upon him, but the contents of which I never learned. This being the first foot-march, there were, of course, many galled and blistered feet in the battalion. My servant obtained, with some difficulty, from the Indians at the rancho, a pint-cup of pinole, or parched corn-meal, and a quart or two of wheat, which, being boiled, furnished some variety in our viands at supper, fresh beef having been our only subsistence since the commencement of the march from San Juan. Distance 12 miles.
December 13. – A rainy disagreeable morning. Mr. Stanley, one of the
volunteers, and one of the gentlemen who so kindly supplied us with
provisions on Mary’s River, died last night. He has been suffering from an
attack of typhoid fever since the commencement of our march, and unable most
of the time to sit upon his horse. He was buried this morning in a small
circular opening in the timber near our camp. The battalion was formed in a
hollow square surrounding the grave which had been excavated for the final
resting-place of our deceased friend and comrade. There was neither bier,
nor coffin, nor pall –
"Not a drum was heard, nor a funeral note."
The cold earth was heaped upon his mortal remains in silent solemnity,
and the ashes of a braver or a better man will never repose in the lonely
hills of California.
After the funeral the battalion was marched a short distance to witness
another scene, not more mournful, but more harrowing than the last. The
Indian captured at the rancho yesterday was condemned to die. He was brought
from his place of confinement and tied to a tree. Here he stood some fifteen
or twenty minutes, until the Indians from a neighboring rancheria could be
brought to witness the execution. A file of soldiers were then ordered to
fire upon him. He fell upon his knees, and remained in that position several
minutes without uttering a groan, and then sank upon the earth. No human
being could have met his fate with more composure, or with stronger
manifestations of courage. It was a scene such as I desire never to witness
again.
A cold rain fell upon us during the entire day’s march. We encamped at
four o’clock, P.M.; but the rain poured down in such torrents that it was
impossible to light our camp-fires and keep them burning. This continued
nearly the whole night, and I have rarely passed a night more uncomfortably.
A scouting party brought in two additional prisoners this evening. Another
returned, and reported the capture of a number of horses, and the
destruction of a rancho by fire. Distance 12 miles.
December 14. – The battalion commenced its march on foot and in a heavy
rain. The mud is very deep, and we have been compelled to wade several
streams of considerable depth, being swollen by the recent rains. At one
o’clock a halt was ordered, and beef slaughtered and cooked for dinner. The
march was resumed late in the afternoon, and the plain surrounding the
mission of San Luis Obispo was reached in the pitch darkness of the night, a
family in the canada having been taken prisoners by the advance party to
prevent them from giving the alarm. The battalion was so disposed as to
surround the mission and take prisoners all contained within it. The place
was entered in great confusion, on account of the darkness, about nine
o’clock. There was no military force at the mission, and the few inhabitants
were greatly alarmed, as may well be supposed, by this sudden invasion. They
made no resistance, and were all taken prisoners except one or two, who
managed to escape and fled in great terror, no one knew where or how. It
being ascertained that Tortoria Pico, a man who has figured conspicuously in
most of the Californian revolutions, was in the neighbourhood, a party was
despatched immediately to the place, and he was brought in a prisoner. The
night was rainy and boisterous, and the soldiers were quartered to the best
advantage in the miserable mud houses, and no acts of violence or outrage of
any kind were committed.
The men composing the Californian battalion, as I have before stated,
have been drawn from many sources, and are roughly clad, and weather-beaten
in their exterior appearance; but I feel it but justice here to state my
belief, that no military party ever passed through an enemy’s country and
observed the same strict regard for the rights of its population. I never
heard of an outrage, or even a trespass being committed by one of the
American volunteers during our entire march. Every American appeared to
understand perfectly the duty which he owed to himself and others in this
respect, and the deportment of the battalion might be cited as a model for
imitation. Distance 18 miles.
Tremendous rain – Mission of San Luis Obispo – Gardens – Various fruits – Farm – Cactus tuna – Calinche – Pumpkins – Trial of Tortoria Pico – Procession of women – Pico’s pardon – Leave San Luis – Surf of the Pacific – Captain Dana – Tempestuous night – Mission of St. Ynes – Effects of drought – Horses exhausted – St. Ynes Mountain – View of the plain of Santa Barbara and the Pacific – A wretched Christmas-day – Descent of St. Ynes Mountain – Terrible storm – Frightful destruction of horses – Dark night What we are fighting for – Arrive at Santa Barbara – Town deserted.
December 15. – The rain fell in cataracts the entire day. The small
streams which flow from the mountains through, and water the valley of, San
Luis Obispo, are swollen by the deluge of water from the clouds into foaming
unfordable torrents. In order not to trespass upon the population at the
mission, in their miserable abodes of mud, the church was opened, and a
large number of the soldiers were quartered in it. A guard, however, was set
day and night, over the chancel and all other property contained in the
building, to prevent its being injured or disturbed. The decorations of the
church are much the same as I have before described. The edifice is large,
and the interior in good repair. The floor is paved with square bricks. I
noticed a common hand-organ in the church, which played the airs we usually
hear from organgrinders in the street.
Besides the main large buildings connected with the church, there are
standing, and partially occupied, several small squares of adobe houses,
belonging to this mission. The heaps of mud, and crumbling walls outside of
these, are evidence that the place was once of much greater extent, and
probably one of the most opulent and prosperous establishments of the kind
in the country. The lands surrounding the mission are finely situated for
cultivation and irrigation if necessary. There are several large gardens,
inclosed by high and substantial walls, which now contain a great variety of
fruit-trees and shrubbery. I noticed the orange, fig, palm, olive, and
grape. There are also large inclosures hedged in by the prickly-pear
(cactus), which grows to an enormous size, and makes an impervious barrier
against man or beast. The stalks of some of these plants are of the
thickness of a man’s body, and grow to the height of fifteen feet. A juicy
fruit is produced by the prickly-pear, named tuna, from which a beverage is
sometimes made, called calinche. It has a pleasant flavour, as has also the
fruit, which, when ripe, is blood-red. A small quantity of pounded wheat was
found here, which, being purchased, was served out to the troops, about a
pound to the man. Frijoles and pumpkins were also obtained, delicacies of no
common order.
December 16. – A court-martial was convened this morning for the trial of Pico, the principal prisoner, on the charge, I understood, of the forfeiture of his parole which had been taken on a former occasion. The sentence of the court was, that he should be shot or hung, I do not know which. A rumour is current among the population here, that there has been an engagement between a party of Americans and Californians, near Los Angeles, in which the former were defeated with the loss of thirty men killed.
December 17. – Cool, with a hazy sky. While standing in one of the corridors this morning, a procession of females passed by me, headed by a lady of fine appearance and dressed with remarkable taste and neatness, compared with those who followed her. Their rebosos concealed the faces of most of them, except the leader, whose beautiful features, I dare say, she thought (and justly) required no concealment. They proceeded to the quarters of Colonel Fremont, and their object, I understood, was to petition for the reprieve or pardon of Pico, who had been condemned to death by the court-martial yesterday, and whose execution was expected to take place this morning. Their intercession was successful, as no execution took place, and in a short time all the prisoners were discharged, and the order to saddle up and march given. We resumed our march at ten o’clock, and encamped just before sunset in a small but picturesque and fertile valley timbered with oak, so near the coast that the roar of the surf breaking against the shore could be heard distinctly. Distance seven miles.
December 18. – Clear, with a delightful temperature. Before the sun rose
the grass was covered with a white frost. The day throughout has been calm
and beautiful. A march of four miles brought us to the shore of a small
indentation in the coast of the Pacific, where vessels can anchor, and boats
can land when the wind is not too fresh. The surf is now rolling and foaming
with prodigious energy – breaking upon the beach in long lines one behind
the other, and striking the shore like cataracts. The hills and plains are
verdant with a carpet of fresh grass, and the scattered live-oaks on all
sides, appearing like orchards of fruit-trees, give to the country an old
and cultivated aspect. The mountains bench away on our left, the low hills
rising in gentle conical forms, beyond which are the more elevated and
precipitous peaks covered with snow. We encamped about three o’clock near
the rancho of Captain Dana, in a large and handsome valley well watered by
an arroyo.
Captain Dana is a native of Massachusetts, and has resided in this
country about thirty years. He is known and esteemed throughout California
for his intelligence and private virtues, and his unbounded generosity and
hospitality. I purchased here a few loaves of wheat bread, and distributed
them among the men belonging to our company as far as they would go, a
luxury which they have not indulged in since the commencement of the march.
Distance 15 miles.
December 19. – The night was cold and tempestuous, with a slight fall of rain. The clouds broke away after sunrise, and the day became warm and pleasant. We continued our march up the valley, and encamped near its head. The table-land and hills are generally gravelly, but appear to be productive of fine grass. The soil of the bottom is of the richest and most productive composition. We crossed in the course of the day a wide flat plain, upon which were grazing large herds of brood-mares ( manadas ) and cattle. In the distance they resembled large armies approaching us. The peaks of the elevated mountains in sight are covered with snow. A large number of horses gave out, strayed, and were left behind to-day, estimated at one hundred. The men came into camp bringing their saddles on their backs, and some of them arriving late in the evening. Distance 18 miles.
December 20. – Parties were sent back this morning to gather up horses and baggage left on the march yesterday, and it was one o’clock before the rear-guard, waiting for the return of those, left camp. The main body made a short march and encamped early, in a small hollow near the rancho of Mr. Faxon, through which flows an arroyo, the surrounding hills being timbered with evergreen oaks. The men amused themselves during the afternoon in target-shooting. Many of the battalion are fine marksmen with the rifle, and the average of shots could not easily be surpassed. The camp spread over an undulating surface of half a mile in diameter, and at night, when the fires were lighted, illuminating the grove, with its drapery of drooping Spanish moss, it presented a most picturesque appearance. Distance 3 miles.
December 21. – Clear and pleasant. A foot march was ordered, with the exception of the horse and baggage guard. We marched several miles through a winding hollow, passing a deserted rancho, and ascending with much labour a steep ridge of hills, descending which we entered a handsome valley, and encamped upon a small stream about four miles from the mission of St. Ynes. The banks of the arroyo are strewn with dead and prostrate timber, the trees, large and small, having been overthrown by tornados. The plain has suffered, like much of the country we have passed through, by a long-continued drought, but the composition of the soil is such as indicates fertility, and from the effects of the late rains the grass is springing up with great luxuriance, from places which before were entirely denuded of vegetation. A party was sent from camp to inspect the mission, but returned without making any important discoveries. Our horses are so weak that many of them are unable to carry their saddles, and were left on the road as usual. A man had his leg broken on the march to-day, by the kick of a mule. He was sent back to the rancho of Mr. Faxon. Distance 15 miles.
December 22. – Clear and pleasant. Being of the party which performed rear guard duty to-day, with orders to bring in all stragglers, we did not leave camp until several hours after the main body had left. The horses of the caballada and the pack-animals were continually giving out and refusing to proceed. Parties of men, exhausted, lay down upon the ground, and it was with much urging, and sometimes with peremptory commands only, that they could be prevailed upon to proceed. The country bears the same marks of drought heretofore described, but fresh vegetation is now springing up and appears vigorous. A large horse-trail leading into one of the cañadas of the mountains on our left was discovered by the scouts, and a party was dispatched to trace it. We passed one deserted rancho, and reached camp between nine and ten o’clock at night, having forced in all the men and most of the horses and pack-mules. Distance 15 miles.
December 23. – Rain fell steadily and heavily the entire day. A small party of men was in advance. Discovering in a brushy valley two Indians armed with bows and arrows, they were taken prisoners. Learning from them that there was a caballada of horses secreted in one of the cañadas, they continued on about ten miles, and found about twenty-five fresh fat horses, belonging to a Californian now among the insurgents below. They were taken and delivered at the camp near the eastern base of the St. Ynes Mountain. Passed this morning a rancho inhabited by a foreigner, an Englishman.
December 24. – Cloudy and cool, with an occasional sprinkling rain. Our route to-day lay directly over the St. Ynes Mountain, by an elevated and most difficult pass. The height of this mountain is several thousand feet. We reached the summit about twelve o’clock, and, our company composing the advance-guard, we encamped about a mile and a half in advance of the main body of the battalion, at a point which overlooks the beautiful plain of Santa Barbara, of which, and the ocean beyond, we had a most extended and interesting view. With the spy-glass, we could see, in the plain far below us, herds of cattle quietly grazing upon the green herbage that carpets its gentle undulations. The plain is dotted with groves, surrounding the springs and belting the small water-courses, of which there are many flowing from this range of mountains. Ranchos are scattered far up and down the plain, but not one human being could be seen stirring. About ten or twelve miles to the south, the white towers of the mission of Santa Barbara raise themselves. Beyond is the illimitable waste of waters. A more lovely and picturesque landscape I never beheld. On the summit of the mountain, and surrounding us there is a growth of hawthorn, manzinita (in bloom), and other small shrubbery. The rock is soft sandstone and conglomerate, immense masses of which, piled one upon another, form a wall along the western brow of the mountain, through which there is a single pass or gateway about eight or ten feet in width. The descent on the western side is precipitous, and appears almost impassable. Distance 4 miles.
December 25 . Christmas-day, and a memorable one to me. Owing to the
difficulty in hauling the cannon up the steep acclivities of the mountain,
the main body of the battalion did not come up with us until twelve o’clock,
and before we commenced the descent of the mountain a furious storm
commenced, raging with a violence rarely surpassed. The rain fell in
torrents, and the wind blew almost with the force of a tornado. This fierce
strife of the elements continued without abatement the entire afternoon, and
until two o’clock at night. Driving our horses before us, we were compelled
to slide down the steep and slippery rocks, or wade through deep gullies and
ravines filled with mud and foaming torrents of water, that rushed downwards
with such force as to carry along the loose rocks and tear up the trees and
shrubbery by the roots. Many of the horses falling into the ravines refused
to make an effort to extricate themselves, and were swept downwards and
drowned. Others, bewildered by the fierceness and terrors of the storm,
rushed or fell headlong over the steep precipices and were killed. Others
obstinately refused to proceed, but stood quaking with fear or shivering
with cold, and many of these perished in the night from the severity of the
storm. The advance party did not reach the foot of the mountain and find a
place to encamp until night – and a night of more impenetrable and terrific
darkness I never witnessed. The ground upon which our camp was made,
although sloping from the hills to a small stream, was so saturated with
water that men as well as horses sunk deep at every step. The rain fell in
such quantities, that fires with great difficulty could be lighted, and most
of them were immediately extinguished.
The officers and men belonging to the company having the cannon in charge
laboured until nine or ten o’clock to bring them down the mountain, but they
were finally compelled to leave them. Much of the baggage also remained on
the side of the mountain, with the pack-mules and horses conveying them, all
efforts to force the animals down being fruitless. The men continued to
straggle into the camp until a late hour of the night; – some crept under
the shelving rocks and did not come in until the next morning. We were so
fortunate as to find our tent, and after much difficulty pitched it under an
oak-tree. All efforts to light a fire and keep it blazing proving abortive,
we spread our blankets upon the ground and endeavoured to sleep, although we
could feel the cold streams of water running through the tent and between
and around our bodies.
In this condition we remained until about two o’clock in the morning,
when the storm having abated I rose, and shaking from my garments the
dripping water, after many unsuccessful efforts succeeded in kindling a
fire. Near our tent I found three soldiers who had reached camp at a late
hour. They were fast asleep on the ground, the water around them being two
or three inches deep; but they had taken care to keep their heads above
water, by using a log of wood for a pillow. The fire beginning to blaze
freely, I dug a ditch with my hands and a sharp stick of wood, which drained
off the pool surrounding the tent. One of the men, when he felt the
sensation consequent upon being "high and dry," roused himself, and, sitting
upright, looked around for some time with an expression of bewildered
amazement. At length he seemed to realize the true state of the case, and
exclaimed, in a tone of energetic soliloquy, –
"Well, who wouldn’t be a soldier and fight for California?"
"You are mistaken," I replied.
Rubbing his eyes, he gazed at me with astonishment, as if having been
entirely unconscious of my presence; but, reassuring himself, he said:
"How mistaken?"
"Why," I answered, "you are not fighting for California."
"What the d – l, then, am I fighting for?" he inquired.
"For TEXAS."
"Texas be d – d; but hurrah for General Jackson!" and with this
exclamation he threw himself back again upon his wooden pillow, and was soon
snoring in a profound slumber.
Making a platform composed of sticks of wood upon the soft mud, I
stripped myself to the skin, wringing the water from each garment as I
proceeded. I then commenced drying them by the fire in the order that they
were replaced upon my body, an employment that occupied me until daylight,
which sign, above the high mountain to the east, down which we had rolled
rather than marched yesterday, I was truly rejoiced to see. Distance 3
miles.
December 26. – Parties were detailed early this morning, and despatched up the mountain to bring down the cannon, and collect the living horses and baggage. The destruction of horse-flesh, by those who witnessed the scene by daylight, is described as frightful. In some places large numbers of dead horses were piled together. In others, horses half buried in the mud of the ravines, or among the rocks, were gasping in the agonies of death. The number of dead animals is variously estimated at from seventy-five to one hundred and fifty, by different persons. The cannon, most of the missing baggage, and the living horses, were all brought in by noon. The day was busily employed in cleansing our rifles and pistols, and drying our drenched baggage.
December 27. – Preparations were commenced early for the resumption of our
march; but such was the condition of everything around us, that it was two
o’clock, P.M., before the battalion was in readiness; and then so great had
been the loss of horses in various ways, that the number remaining was
insufficient to mount the men. One or two companies, and portions of others,
were compelled to march on foot. We were visited during the forenoon by Mr.
Sparks, an American, Dr. Den, an Irishman, and Mr. Burton, another American,
residents of Santa Barbara. They had been suffered by the Californians to
remain in the place. Their information communicated to us was, that the town
was deserted of nearly all its population. A few houses only were occupied.
Passing down a beautiful and fertile undulating plain, we encamped just
before sunset in a live-oak grove, about half a mile from the town of Santa
Barbara. Strict orders were issued by Col. Fremont, that the property and
the persons of Californians, not found in arms, should be sacredly
respected. To prevent all collisions, no soldier was allowed to pass the
lines of the camp without special permission, or orders from his officers.
I visited the town before dark, but found the houses, with few
exceptions, closed, and the streets deserted. After hunting about some time,
we discovered a miserable dwelling, occupied by a shoemaker and his family,
open. Entering it, we were very kindly received by its occupants, who, with
a princely supply of civility, possessed but a beggarly array of comforts.
At our request they provided for us a supper of tortillas, frijoles, and
stewed carne seasoned with chile colorado, for which, paying them
dos pesos
for four, we bade them good evening, all parties being well satisfied. The
family consisted, exclusive of the shoemaker, of a dozen women and children,
of all ages. The women, from the accounts they had received of the
intentions of the Americans, were evidently unprepared for civil treatment
from them. They expected to be dealt with in a very barbarous manner, in all
respects; but they were disappointed, and invited us to visit them again.
Distance 8 miles.
Santa Barbara – Picturesque situation – Fertility of the country – Climate – Population – Society – Leave Santa Barbara – Rincon – Grampus – Mission of St. Buenaventura – Fine gardens – Meet a party of mounted Californians – They retreat before us – Abundance of maize – Arrival of couriers from Com. Stockton – Effects of war upon the country – More of the enemy in sight – News of the capture of Los Angeles, by Gen. Kearny and Com. Stockton – Mission of San Fernando – The Maguey – Capitulation of the Californians – Arrive at Los Angeles – General reflections upon the march – Meet with old acquaintances.
THE battalion remained encamped at Santa Barbara, from the 27th of
December to the 3rd of January, 1847. The U.S. flag was raised in the public
square of the town the day after our arrival.
The town of Santa Barbara is beautifully situated for the picturesque,
about one mile from the shore of a roadstead, which affords anchorage for
vessels of any size, and a landing for boats in calm weather. During stormy
weather, or the prevalence of strong winds from the south-east, vessels, for
safety, are compelled to stand out to sea. A fertile plain extends some
twenty or thirty miles up and down the coast, varying in breadth from two to
ten miles, and bounded on the east by a range of high mountains. The
population of the town I should judge, from the number of houses, to be
about 1200 souls. Most of the houses are constructed of adobes, in the usual
architectural style of Mexican buildings. Some of them, however, are more
Americanized, and have some pretensions to tasteful architecture, and
comfortable and convenient interior arrangement. Its commerce, I presume, is
limited to the export of hides and tallow produced upon the surrounding
plain; and the commodities received in exchange for these from the traders
on the coast. Doubtless, new and yet undeveloped sources of wealth will be
discovered hereafter that will render this town of much greater importance
than it is at present.
On the coast, a few miles above Santa Barbara, there are, I have been
told, immense quantities of pure bitumen or mineral tar, which, rising in
the ocean, has been thrown upon the shore by the waves, where in a concrete
state, like resin, it has accumulated in inexhaustible masses. There are,
doubtless, many valuable minerals in the neighboring mountains, which, when
developed by enterprise, will add greatly to the wealth and importance of
the town. For intelligence, refinement, and civilization, the population, it
is said, will compare advantageously with any in California. Some old and
influential Spanish families are residents of this place; but their casas,
with the exception of that of Senor Don José
Noriega, the largest house in the place, are now closed and deserted. Senor
N. is one of the oldest and most respectable citizens of California, having
filled the highest offices in the government of the country. One of his
daughters is a resident of New York, having married Alfred Robinson, Esq.,
of that city, author of "Life in California."
The climate, judging from the indications while we remained here, must be
delightful, even in winter. With the exception of one day, which was
tempestuous, the temperature at night did not fall below 50̊,
and during the day the average was between 60̊
and 70̊. The atmosphere was perfectly
clear and serene, the weather resembling that of the pleasant days of April
in the same latitude on the Atlantic side of the continent. It is a
peculiarity of the Mexicans that they allow no shade or ornamental trees to
grow near their houses. In none of the streets of the towns or missions
through which I have passed has there been a solitary tree standing. I
noticed very few horticultural attempts in Santa Barbara. At the mission,
about two miles distant, which is an extensive establishment and in good
preservation, I was told that there were fine gardens, producing most of the
varieties of fruits of the tropical and temperate climates.
Several Californians came into camp and offered to deliver themselves up.
They were permitted to go at large. They represented that the Californian
force at the south was daily growing weaker from dissensions and desertions.
The United States prize-schooner Julia arrived on the 30th, from which was
landed a cannon for the use of the battalion. It has, however, to be mounted
on wheels, and the gear necessary for hauling it has to be made in the camp.
Reports were current in camp on the 31st, that the Californians intended to
meet and fight us at San Buenaventura, about thirty miles distant. On the
1st of January, the Indians of the mission and town celebrated new-year’s
day, by a procession, music, etc. They marched from the mission to the town,
and through most of the empty and otherwise silent streets. Among the airs
they played was "Yankee Doodle."
January 3. – A beautiful spring-like day. We resumed our march at 11 o’clock, and encamped in a live-oak grove about ten miles south of Santa-Barbara. Our route has been generally near the shore of the ocean. Timber is abundant, and the grass and other vegetation luxuriant. Distance 10 miles.
January 4. – At the "Rincon," or passage between two points of land jutting into the ocean, so narrow that at high tides the surf dashes against the nearly perpendicular bases of the mountains which bound the shore, it has been supposed the hostile Californians would make a stand, the position being so advantageous to them. The road, if road it can be called, where all marks of hoofs or wheels are erased by each succeeding tide, runs along a hard sand-beach, with occasional projections of small points of level ground, ten or fifteen miles, and the surf, even when the tide has fallen considerably, frequently reaches to the bellies of the horses. Some demonstration has been confidently expected here, but we encamped in this pass the first day without meeting an enemy or seeing a sign of one. Our camp is close to the ocean, and the roar of the surf, as it dashes against the shore, is like that of an immense cataract. Hundreds of the grampus whale are sporting a mile or two distant from the land, spouting up water and spray to a great height, in columns resembling steam from the escape-pipes of steam-boats. Distance 6 miles.
January 5. – The prize-schooner Julia was lying off in sight this morning, for the purpose of co-operating with us, should there be any attempt on the part of the enemy to interrupt the march of the battalion. We reached the mission of San Buenaventura, and encamped a short distance from it at two o’clock. Soon after, a small party of Californians exhibited ] themselves on an elevation just beyond the mission. The battalion was immediately called to arms, and marched out to meet hem. But, after the discharge of the two field-pieces, they scampered away like a flock of antelopes, and the battalion returned to camp, with none killed or wounded on either side. Under the belief that there was a larger force of Californians encamped at a distance of some five or six miles, and that during the night they might attempt a surprise, or plant cannon on the summit of a hill about a mile from camp, so as to annoy us, a party, of which I was one, was detached, after dark, to occupy the hill secretly. We marched around the mission as privately as possible, and took our position on the hill, where we remained all night without the least disturbance, except by the tempestuous wind, which blew a blast so cold and piercing as almost to congeal the blood. When the sun rose in the morning, I could see, far out in the ocean, three vessels scudding before the gale like phantom ships. One of these was the little schooner that had been waiting upon us while marching along the "Rincon." Distance 14 miles.
January 6. – The wind has blown a gale in our faces all day, and the
clouds of dust have been almost blinding. The mission of San Buenaventura
does not differ, in its general features, from those of other establishments
of the same kind heretofore described. There is a large garden, inclosed by
a high wall, attached to the mission, in which I noticed a great variety of
fruit-trees and ornamental shrubbery. There are also numerous inclosures,
for cultivation, by willow hedges. The soil, when properly tilled, appears
to be highly productive. This mission is situated about two miles from the
shore of a small bay or indentation of the coast, on the edge of a plain or
valley watered by the Rio Santa Clara, which empties into the Pacific at
this point. A chain of small islands, from ten to twenty miles from the
shore, commences at Santa Barbara, and extends south along the coast, to the
bay of San Pedro. These islands present to the eye a barren appearance. At
present the only inhabitants of the mission are a few Indians, the white
population having abandoned it on our approach, with the exception of one
man, who met us yesterday and surrendered himself a prisoner.
Proceeding up the valley about seven miles from the mission, we
discovered at a distance a party of sixty or seventy mounted Californians,
drawn up in order on the bank of the river. This, it was conjectured, might
be only a portion of a much larger force stationed here, and concealed in a
deep ravine which runs across the valley, or in the cañadas of the hills on
our left. Scouting-parties mounted the hills, for the purpose of
ascertaining if such was the case. In the mean time, the party of
Californians on our right scattered themselves over the plain, prancing
their horses, waving their swords, banners, and lances, and performing a
great variety of equestrian feats. They were mounted on fine horses, and
there are no better horsemen, if as good, in the world, than Californians.
They took especial care, however, to keep beyond the reach of cannon-shot.
The battalion wheeled to the left for the purpose of crossing a point of
hills jutting into the plain, and taking the supposed concealed party of the
enemy on their flank. It was, however, found impracticable to cross the
hills with the cannon; and, returning to the plain, the march was continued,
the Californians still prancing and performing their antics in our faces.
Our horses were so poor and feeble that it was impossible to chase them with
any hope of success. As we proceeded, they retreated. Some of the Indian
scouts, among whom were a Delaware named Tom, who distinguished himself in
the engagement near San Juan, and a Californian Indian named Gregorio, rode
towards them; and two or three guns were discharged on both sides, but
without any damage, the parties not being within dangerous gun-shot distance
of each other. The Californians then formed themselves in a body, and soon
disappeared behind some hills on our right. We encamped about four o’clock in
the valley, the wind blowing almost a hurricane, and the dust flying so as
nearly to blind us. Distance 9 miles.
January 7. – Continuing our march up the valley, we encamped near the rancho of Carrillo, where we found an abundance of corn, wheat, and frijoles. The house was shut up, having been deserted by its proprietor, who is said to be connected with the rebellion. Californian scouts were seen occasionally today on the summits of the hills south of us. Distance 7 miles.
January 8. – Another tempestuous day. I do not remember ever to have experienced such disagreeable effects from the wind and the clouds of dust in which we were constantly enveloped, driving into our faces without intermission. We encamped this afternoon in a grove of willows near a rancho, where, as yesterday, we found corn and beans in abundance. Our horses, consequently, fare well, and we fare better than we have done. One-fourth of the battalion, exclusive of the regular guard, is kept under arms during the night, to be prepared against surprises and night-attacks. Distance 12 miles.
January 9. – Early this morning Captain Hamley, accompanied by a
Californian as a guide, came into camp, with despatches from Commodore
Stockton. The exact purport of these despatches I never learned, but it was
understood that the commodore, in conjunction with General Kearny, was
marching upon Los Angeles, and that, if they had not already reached and
taken that town (the present capital of California ), they were by this time
in its neighbourhood. Captain Hamley passed, last night, the encampment of a
party of Californians in our rear. He landed from a vessel at Santa Barbara,
and from thence followed us to this place by land. We encamped this
afternoon at a rancho, situated on the edge of a fertile and finely watered
plain of considerable extent, where we found corn, wheat, and frijoles in
great abundance. The rancho was owned and occupied by an aged Californian,
of commanding and respectable appearance; I could not but feel compassion
for the venerable old man, whose sons were now all absent and engaged in the
war, while he, at home and unsupported, was suffering the unavoidable
inconveniences and calamities resulting from an army being quartered upon
him.
As we march south there appears to be a larger supply of wheat, maize,
beans, and barley in the granaries of the ranchos. More attention is
evidently given to the cultivation of the soil here than farther north,
although neither the soil nor climate is so well adapted to the raising of
crops. The Californian spies have shown themselves at various times today,
on the summits of the hills on our right. Distance 12 miles.
January 10. – Crossing the plain, we encamped, about two o’clock P.M., in the mouth of a canada, through which we ascend over a difficult pass in a range of elevated hills between us and the plain of San Fernando, or Couenga. Some forty or fifty mounted Californians exhibited themselves on the summit of the pass during the afternoon. They were doubtless a portion of the same party that we met several days ago, just below San Buenaventura. A large number of cattle were collected in the plain and corralled, to be driven along to-morrow for subsistence. Distance 10 miles.
January 11. – The battalion this morning was divided into two parties;
the main-body, on foot, marching over a ridge of hills to the right of the
road or trail; and the artillery, horses and baggage, with an advance-guard
and escort, marching by the direct route. We found the pass narrow, and
easily to be defended by brave and determined men against a greatly superior
force; but when we had mounted the summit of the ridge there was no enemy,
nor the sign of one, in sight. Descending into a canada on the other side,
we halted until the main body came up to us, and then the whole force was
again reunited, and the march continued.
Emerging from the hills, the advance party to which I was attached met
two Californians, bareheaded, riding in great haste. They stated that they
were from the mission of San Fernando; that the Californian forces had met
the American forces under the command of General Kearny and Commodore
Stockton, and had been defeated after two days’ fighting; and that the
Americans had yesterday marched into Los Angeles. They requested to be
conducted immediately to Colonel Fremont, which request was complied with. A
little farther on we met a Frenchman, who stated that he was the bearer of a
letter from General Kearny, at Los Angeles, to Colonel Fremont. He confirmed
the statement we had just heard, and was permitted to pass. Continuing our
march, we entered the mission of San Fernando at one o’clock and in about
two hours the main body arrived, and the whole battalion encamped in the
mission buildings.
The buildings and gardens belonging to this mission are in better
condition than those of any of these establishments I have seen. There are
two extensive gardens, surrounded by high walls; and a stroll through them
afforded a most delightful contrast from the usually uncultivated landscape
we have been travelling through for so long a time. Here were brought
together most of the fruits and many of the plants of the temperate and
tropical climates. Although not the season of flowers, still the roses were
in bloom. Oranges, lemons, figs, and olives hung upon the trees, and the
blood – red tuna, or prickly-pear, looked very tempting. Among the plants I
noticed the American aloe ( argave Americana ), which is otherwise called
maguey . From this plant, when it attains maturity, a saccharine liquor is
extracted, which is manufactured into a beverage called pulque, and is much
prized by Mexicans. The season of grapes has passed, but there are extensive
vineyards at this mission. I drank, soon after my arrival, a glass of red
wine manufactured here, of a good quality.
The mission of San Fernando is situated at the head of an extensive and
very fertile plain, judging from the luxuriance of the grass and other
vegetation now springing up. I noticed in the granary from which our horses
were supplied with food many thousand bushels of corn. The ear is smaller
than that of the corn of the Southern States. It resembles the maize
cultivated in the Northern States, the kernel being hard and polished. Large
herds of cattle and sheep were grazing upon the plain in sight of the
mission.
January 12. – This morning two Californian officers, accompanied by Tortaria Pico, who marched with us from San Luis Obispo, came to the mission to treat for peace. A consultation was held and terms were suggested, and, as I understand, partly agreed upon, but not concluded. The officers left in the afternoon.
January 13. – We continued our march, and encamped near a deserted rancho at the foot of Couenga plain. Soon after we halted, the Californian peace-commissioners appeared, and the terms of peace and capitulation were finally agreed upon and signed by the respective parties. They were as follows: –
ARTICLES OF CAPITULATION,
Made and entered into at the Ranch of Couenga, this thirteenth day of
January, eighteen hundred and forty-seven, between P. B. Reading, major;
Louis McLane, junr., commanding 3rd Artillery; William H. Russell, ordnance
officer – commissioners appointed by J. C. Fremont, Colonel United States
Army, and Military Commandant of California ; and José
Antonio Carillo, commandant esquadron; Augustin Olivera, deputado –
commissioners appointed by Don Andres Pico, Commander-in-chief of the
Californian forces under the Mexican flag.
Article 1st. The Commissioners on the part of the Californians agree that
their entire force shall, on presentation of themselves to
Lieutenant-Colonel Fremont, deliver up their artillery and public arms, and
that they shall return peaceably to their homes, conforming to the laws and
regulations of the United States, and not again take up arms during the war
between the United States and Mexico, but will assist and aid in placing the
country in a state of peace and tranquility.
Art. 2nd. The Commissioners on the part of Lieutenant-Colonel Fremont
agree and bind themselves, on the fulfilment of the 1st Article by the
Californians, that they shall be guaranteed protection of life and property,
whether on parole or otherwise.
Article 3rd. That until a Treaty of Peace be made and signed between the
United States of North America and the Republic of Mexico, no Californian or
other Mexican citizen shall be bound to take the oath of allegiance.
Article 4th. That any Californian or citizen of Mexico, desiring, is
permitted by this capitulation to leave the country without let or
hinderance.
Article 5th. That, in virtue of the aforesaid articles, equal rights and
privileges are vouchsafed to every citizen of California, as are enjoyed by
the citizens of the United States of North America.
Article 6th. All officers, citizens, foreigners or others, shall receive
the protection guaranteed by the 2nd Article.
Article 7th. This capitulation is intended to be no bar in effecting such
arrangements as may in future be in justice required by both parties.
ADDITIONAL ARTICLE.
Ciudad de Los Angeles, Jan. 16th, 1847.
That the paroles of all officers, citizens and others, of the United States, and naturalized citizens of Mexico, are by this foregoing capitulation cancelled, and every condition of said paroles, from and after this date, are of no further force and effect, and all prisoners of both parties are hereby released.
P. B. READING, Maj. Cal’a. Battalion.
LOUIS McLANE, Com’d. Artillery.
WM. H. RUSSELL, Ordnance Officer.
JOSE ANTONIO CARILLO, Comd’t. of Squadron.
AUGUSTIN OLIVERA, Deputado.
Approved,
J. C. FREMONT, Lieut.-Col. U.S. Army, and Military Commandant of
California.
ANDRES PICO, Commandant of Squadron and Chief of the National Forces of
California.
The next morning a brass howitzer was brought into camp, and delivered. What other arms were given up I cannot say, for I saw none. Nor can I speak as to the number of Californians who were in the field under the command of Andres Pico when the articles of capitulation were signed, for they were never in sight of us after we reached San Fernando. Distance 12 miles.
January 14. – It commenced raining heavily this morning. Crossing a ridge
of hills, we entered the magnificent undulating plain surrounding the city
of Angels, now verdant with a carpet of fresh vegetation. Among other plants
I noticed the mustard, and an immense quantity of the common pepper-grass of
our gardens. We passed several warm springs which throw up large quantities
of bitumen or mineral tar. Urging our jaded animals through the mud and
water, which in places was very deep, we reached the town about 3 o’clock.
A more miserably clad, wretchedly provided, and unprepossessing military
host, probably never entered a civilized city. In all, except our order,
deportment, and arms, we might have been mistaken for a procession of
tatterdemalions, or a tribe of Nomades from Tartary. There were not many of
us so fortunate as to have in our possession an entire outside garment; and
several were without hats or shoes, or a complete covering to their bodies.
But that we had at last reached the terminus of a long and laborious march,
attended with hardships, exposure, and privation rarely suffered, was a
matter of such heartfelt congratulation, that these comparatively trifling
inconveniences were not thought of. Men never, probably, in the entire
history of military transactions, bore these privations with more fortitude
or uttered fewer complaints.
We had now arrived at the abode of the celestials, if the interpretation
of the name of the place could be considered as indicative of the character
of its population, and drenched with rain and plastered with mud, we entered
the "City of the Angels," and marched through its principal street to our
temporary quarters. We found the town, as we expected, in the possession of
the United States naval and military forces under the command of Commodore
Stockton and General Kearny, who, after two engagements with six hundred
mounted Californians on the 8th and 9th, had marched into the city on the
10th. The town was almost entirely deserted by its inhabitants, and most of
the houses, except those belonging to foreigners, or occupied as quarters
for the troops, were closed. I met here many of the naval officers whose
agreeable acquaintance I had made at San Francisco. Among others were
Lieutenants Thompson, Hunter, Gray and Rhenshaw, and Captain Zeilin of the
marines, all of whom had marched from San Diego. Distance 12 miles.
Military operations of General Kearny and Commodore Stockton—Their reports to the Secretaries of War and Navy—Battles of San Pasqual and San Gabriel
THE operations of General Kearny in California, and afterwards the joint operations of Commodore Stockton and General Kearny, which resulted in the defeat of the Californians on the 8th and 9th of January, and the capture of Los Angeles, are clearly and concisely stated in their official reports to the War Department, which were dispatched to Washington by Lieut. Gray of the navy, and Lieut. Emory of the army, immediately after our arrival at Los Angeles.. The reports are subjoined.
HEADQUARTERS, ARMY OF THE WEST,
San Diego, Upper California, Dec. 12, 1846.
SIR: As I have previously reported to you, I left Santa Fé
(New Mexico) for this country on the 25th September, with 300 of the 1st
dragoons, under Major Sumner. We crossed to the bank of the Del Norte at
Albuquerque, (65 miles below Santa Fé,)
continuing down on that bank till the 6th October, when we met Mr. Kit
Carson, with a party of sixteen men, on his way to Washington City, with a
mail and papers, an express from Commodore Stockton and Lieut.-Col. Fremont,
reporting that the Californians were already in possession of the Americans
under their command; that the American flag was flying from every important
position in the territory, and that the country was forever free from
Mexican control; the war ended, and peace and harmony established among tho
people. In consequence of this information, I directed that 200 dragoons,
under Major Sumner, should remain in New Mexico, and that the other 100,
with two mountain-howitzers, under Captain Moore, should accompany me as a
guard to Upper California. With this guard, we continued our march to the
south, on the right bank of the Del Norte, to the distance of about 230
miles below Santa Fé, when, leaving that
river on the 15th October, in about the 33d deg. of latitude, we marched
westward for the Copper-mines, which we reached on the 18th, and on the 20th
reached the river Gila, proceeded down the Gila, crossing and recrossing it
as often as obstructions in our front rendered necessary; on the 11th
November reached the Pimos village, about 80 miles from the settlements in
Sonora. These Indians we found honest, and living comfortably, having made a
good crop this year; and we remained with them two days, to rest our men,
recruit our animals, and obtain provisions. On the 22d November, reached the
mouth of the Gila, in latitude about 32 degrees — our whole march on this
river having been nearly 500 miles, and, with but very little exception,
between the 32d and 33d parallels of latitude.
This river, (the Gila,) more particularly the northern side, is bounded
nearly the whole distance by a range of lofty mountains; and if a tolerable
wagon-road to its mouth from the Del Norte is ever discovered, it must be on
the south side. The country is destitute of timber, producing but few
cotton-wood and musquit-trees; and though the soil on the bottom-lands is
generally good, yet we found but very little grass or vegetation, in
consequence of the dryness of the climate and the little rain which falls
here. The Pimos Indians, who make good crops of wheat, corn, vegetables,
&c., irrigate the land by water from the Gun, as did the Aztecs, (the former
inhabitants of the country,) the remains of whose sequias, or little canals,
were seen by us, as well as the position of many of their dwellings, and a
large quantity of broken pottery and earthenware used by them.
We crossed the Colorado about 10 miles below the mouth of the Gila, and
marching near it about 30 miles further, turned off and crossed the desert—
a distance of about 60 miles—without water or grass
On the 2d December, reached Warner’s rancho, (Agua Caliente,) the
frontier settlement in California, on the route leading to Sonora. On the
4th we marched to Mr. Stokes’s rancho, (San Isabella,) and on the 5th, were
met by a small party of volunteers, under Captain Gillespie, sent out from
San Diego by Commodore Stockton, to give us what information they possessed
of the enemy, 600 or 700 of whom are now said to be in arms and in the field
throughout the territory, determined upon opposing the Americans and
resisting their authority in the country. Encamped that night near another
macho (San Maria) of Mr. Stokes, about 40 miles from San Diego.
The journals and maps, kept and prepared by Captain Johnston, (my
aid-dc-camp,) and those by Lieutenant Emory, topographical engineers, which
will accompany or follow this report, will render any thing further from me,
on this subject, unnecessary.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
S.W. KEARNY,
Brigadier-general, U. S. A.
BRIGADIER-GENERAL R. JONES,
Adjutant-general, U. S. A.
HEADQUARTERS, ARMY OF THE WEST,
San Diego, Upper California, Dec. 13, 1846.
SIR: In my communication to you of yesterday’s date, I brought the reports of the movements of my guard up to the morning of the 5th instant, in camp near a rancho of Mr. Stokes, (Santa Maria,) about 40 miles from San Diego.
Having learned from Captain Gillespie, of the volunteers, that there was
an armed party of Californians, with a number of extra horses at San Pasqual,
three leagues distant on a road leading to this place, I sent Lieutenant
Hammond, 1st dragoons with a few men to make a reconnoissance of them. He
returned at two in the morning of the 6th instant, reporting that he had
found the party in the place mentioned, and that ho had been seen, though
not pursued by them. I then determined that I would march for and attack
them by break of day. Arrangements were accordingly made for the purpose. My
aid-de-camp, Capt. Johnston, dragoons, was assigned to the command of the
advanced guard of twelve dragoons, mounted on the best horses we had; then
followed about fifty dragoons under Capt. Moore, mounted, with but few
exceptions, on the tired mules they had ridden from Santa Fé,
(New Mexico, 1,050 miles;) then about twenty volunteers of Captain Gibson’s
company under his command, and that of Captain Gillespie; then followed our
two mountain-howitzers, with dragoons to manage them, and under the charge
of Lieutenant Davidson of the let regiment. The remainder of the dragoons,
volunteers, and citizens, employed by the officers of the staff &c., were
placed under the command of Major Swords, (quartermaster,) with orders to
follow on our trail with the baggage, and to see to its safety.
As the day (December 6) dawned, we approached the enemy at San Pasqual,
who was already in the saddle, when Captain Johnston made a furious charge
upon them with his advance-guard, and was in a short time after supported by
the dragoons; soon after which the enemy gave way, having kept up from the
beginning a continued fire upon us. Upon the retreat of the enemy, Captain
Moore led off rapidly in pursuit, accompanied by the dragoons, mounted on
horses, and was followed, though slowly, by the others on their tired mules;
the enemy, well mounted, and among the best horsemen in the world, after
retreating about half a mile, and seeing an interval between Captain Moore
and his advance and the dragoons coming to his support, rallied their whole
force, charged with their lances, and, on account of their greatly superior
numbers, but few of us in front remained untouched; for five minutes they
held the ground from us, when our men coming up, we again drove them, and
they fled from the field, not to return to it, which we occupied and
encamped upon.
A most melancholy duty now remains for me: it is to report the death of
my aid-de-camp, Captain Johnston, who was shot dead at the commencement of
the action; of Captain Moore, who was lanced just previous to the final
retreat of the enemy; and of Lieutenant Hammond, also lanced, and who
survived but a few hours. We had also killed two sergeants, two corporals,
and ten privates of the 1st dragoons; one private of the volunteers, and one
man, an engage in the topographical department. Among the wounded are
myself, (in two places,) Lieutenant Warner, topographical engineers, (in
three places,) Captains Gillespie and Gibson of the volunteers, (the former
in three places,) one sergeant, one bugleman, amid nine privates of the
dragoons; many of these surviving from two to ten lance wounds, most of them
when unhorsed and incapable of resistance.
Our howitzers were not brought into the action; but coming to the front
at the close of it, before they were turned, so as to admit of being fired
upon the retreating enemy, the two mules before one of them got alarmed, and
freeing themselves from their drivers, ran off, and among the enemy, and was
thus lost to us.
The enemy proved to be a party of 160 Californians under Andres Pico,
brother of the late governor; the number of their dead and wounded must have
been considerable, though I have no means of ascertaining how many, as just
previous to their final retreat, they carried off all excepting six.
The great number of our killed and wounded proves that our officers and
men have fully sustained the high character and reputation of our troops;
and the victory thus gained over more than double our force, may assist in
forming the wreath of our national glory.
I have to return my thanks to many for their gallantry and good conduct
on the field, and particularly to Capt. Turner, first dragoons, (assistant
acting adjutant-general,) and to Lieut. Emory, topographical engineers, who
were active in the performance of their duties, and in conveying orders from
me to the command.
On the morning of the 7th, having made ambulances for our wounded, and
interred the dead, we proceeded on our march, when the enemy showed himself,
occupying the hills in our front, but which they left as we approached;
till, reaching San Bernado, a party of them took possession of a hill near
to it, and maintained their position until attacked by our advance, who
quickly drove them from it, killing and wounding five of their number, with
no loss on our part.
On account of our wounded men, and upon the report of the surgeon that
rest was necessary for them, we remained at this place till the morning of
the 11th, when Lieut. Gray, of the navy, in command of a party of sailors
and marines, sent out from San Diego by Com. Stockton, joined us. We
proceeded at 10, A. M., the enemy no longer showing himself; and on the
12th, (yesterday,) we reached this place; and I have now to offer my thanks
to Com. Stockton, and all of his gallant command, for the very many kind
attentions we have received and continue to receive from the m.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
S. W. KEARNY, Brig. Gen. U. S. A.
BRIGADIER-GENERAL R. JONES,
Adjutant-general, U. S. A., Washington.
HEADQUARTERS, ARMY OF THE WEST,
Ciudad de los Angeles, Upper California, Jan. 12, 1847.
SIR: I have the honor to report that, at the request of Com. R. F.
Stockton, United States Navy, (who in September last assumed the title of
governor of California,) I consented to take command of an expedition to
this place, (the capital of the country,) and that, on the 29th December, I
left San Diego with about 500 men, consisting of sixty dismounted dragoons
under Capt. Turner, fifty California volunteers, and the remainder of
marines and sailors, with a battery of artillery—Lieut. Emory (topographical
engineers) acting as assistant adjutant-general. Com. Stockton accompanied
us.
We proceeded on our route without seeing the enemy, till on the 8th
instant, when they showed themselves in full force of 600 mounted men, with
four pieces of artillery, under their governor, (Flores,) occupying the
heights in front of us, which commanded the crossing of the river San
Gabriel, and they ready to oppose our further progress. The necessary
disposition of our troops was immediately made, by covering our front with a
strong party of skirmishers, placing our wagons and baggage-train in rear of
them, and protecting the flanks and rear with the remainder of the command.
We then proceeded, forded the river, carried the heights, and drove the
enemy from them, after an action of about an hour and a half, during which
they made a charge upon our left flank, which was repulsed; soon after which
they retreated and left us in possession of the field, on which we encamped
that night.
The next day (the 9th instant) we proceeded on our march at the usual I
hour, the enemy in our front and on our flanks: and when we reached the
plains of the Mesa, their artillery again opened upon us, when their fire
was returned by our guns as we advanced; and after hovering around and near
us for about two hours, occasionally skirmishing with us during that time,
they concentrated their force and made another charge on our left flank,
which was quickly repulsed. Shortly after which they retired, we continuing
our march, and we (in the afternoon) encamped on the banks of the Mesa,
three miles below this city, which we entered the following morning (the
10th instant) without further molestation.
Our loss in the actions of the 8th and 9th was small, being but one
private I killed, and two officers—Lieut. Rowan of the navy, and Capt.
Gillespie, of the volunteers, and eleven privates wounded. The enemy,
mounted on fine horses, and being the best riders in the world, carried off
their killed and wounded, and we know not the number of them, though it must
have been considerable.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
S. W. KEARNY, Brigadier-general.
BRIGADIER-GENERAL R. JONES,
Adjutant-general, U. S. A., Washington.
Statement of killed and wounded in the action of the 8th January, 1847. Killed.—Frederick Strauss, seaman, United States ship Portsmouth, artillery corps; cannon-shot in neck.
Wounded.—lst. Jacob Hait, volunteer, artillery driver, wound in left
breast; died on evening of 9th. 2d. Thos. Smith, ordinary seaman, United
States ship Cyane, company D, musketeers, shot, by accident, through the
right thigh; died on night of the 8th. 3d. William Cope, seaman, United
States ship Savannah, company B, musketeers, wound in the right thigh and
right arm; severe. 4th. George Bantum, ordinary seaman, United States ship
Cyane, pikeman, punctured wound of hand, accidental; slight. 5th. Patrick Campbell, seaman, United States
ship Cyane, company D, musketeers, wound in thigh by spent ball; slight.
6th. William Scott, private, United States marine corps, ship Portsmouth,
wound in the chest, spent ball; slight. 7th. James Hendry, seaman, United
States ship Congress, company A, musketeers, spent ball, wound over stomach;
slight. 8th. Joseph Wilson, seaman, United States ship Congress, company A,
musketeers, wound in right thigh, spent ball; slight. 9th. Ivory Coffin,
seaman, United States ship Savannah, company B, musketeers, contusion of
right knee, spent ball; slight.
Wounded on the 9th.—lst. Mark A. Child, private, company C, 1st
regiment United States dragoons, gunshot wound in right heel, penetrating
upwards into the ankle-joint; severe. 2d. James Cambell, ordinary seaman,
United States ship Congress, company D, carbineers, wound in right foot,
second toe amputated; accidental discharge of his own carbine. 3d. George
Crawford, boatswain’s mate, United States ship Cyane, company D, musketeers,
wound in left thigh ; severe. Lieut. Rowan, United States navy, and Capt.
Gillespie, California battalion, volunteers, contused slightly by spent
balls.
I am, sir, most respectfully, your obedient servant,
JOHN S. GRIFFIN, Assistant Surgeon, U. S. N.
Capt. WM. H. EMORY,
Assistant Adjutant-general, U. S. forces.
CIUDAD DE LOS ANGELES, California, Jan. 11, 1847.
HEADQUARTERS, ARMY OF THE WEST, )
Ciudad de los Angeles, Upper California, Jan. 14, 1847.
SIR: This morning, Lieutenant-colonel Fremont, of the regiment of mounted
riflemen, reached here with 400 volunteers from the Sacramento; the enemy
capitulated with him yesterday, near San Fernando, agreeing to lay down
their arms, and we have now the prospect of having peace and quietness in
this country, which I hope may not be interrupted again.
I have not yet received any information of the troops which were to come
from New York, nor of those to follow me from New Mexico, but presume they
will be here before long. On their arrival, I shall, agreeably to the
instructions of the President of the United States, have the management of
affairs in this country, and will endeavor to carry out his views in
relation to it.
Very respectfully your obedient servant,
S.W. KEARNY Brigadier-general.
BRIGADIER-GENERAL R. JONES,
Adjutant-general, U S. A., Washington.
HEADQUARTERS, CIUDAD DE LOS ANGELES,
January 11, 1847.
Sin: I have the honor to inform you that it has pleased God to crown our
poor efforts to put down the rebellion, and to retrieve the credit of our
arms, with the most complete success. The insurgents determined, with their
whole force, to meet us on our march from San Diego to this place, and to
decide the fate of the territory by a general battle.
Having made the best preparation I could, in the face of a boasting and
vigilant enemy, we left San Diego on the 29th day of December, (that portion
of the insurgent army who had been watching and annoying us, having left to
join the main body,) with about six hundred fighting men, composed of
detachments from the ships Congress, Savannah, Portsmouth, and Cyane, aided
by General Kearny, with a detachment of sixty men on foot, from the first
regiment of United States dragoons, and by Captain Gillespie, with sixty
mounted riflemen.
We marched nearly one hundred and forty miles in ten days, and found the
rebels, on the 8th day of January, in a strong position, on the high bank of
the "Rio San Gabriel," with six hundred mounted men and four pieces of
artillery, prepared to dispute our passage across the river.
We waded through the water, dragging our guns after us, against the
galling fire of the enemy, without exchanging a shot, until we reached the
opposite shore, when the fight became general, and our troops having
repelled a charge of the enemy, charged up the bank in a most gallant
mariner, and gained a complete victory over the insurgent army.
The next day, on our march across the plains of the "Mesa" to this place,
the insurgents made another desperate effort to save the capital and their
own necks; they were concealed with their artillery in a ravine until we
came within gunshot, when they opened a brisk fire from their field-pieces
on our right flank, and at the same time charged both on our front and rear.
We soon silenced their gulls, and repelled the charge, when they fled, and
permitted us the next morning to march into town without any further
opposition.
We have rescued the country from the hands of the insurgents, but I fear
that the absence of Colonel Fremont’s battalion of mounted riflemen will
enable most of the Mexican officers, who have broken their parole, to escape
to Sonora.
I am happy to say that our loss in killed and wounded does not exceed
twenty, whilst we are informed that the enemy has lost between seventy and
eighty.
This dispatch must go immediately, and I will wait another opportunity to
furnish you with the details of these two battles, and the gallant conduct
of the officers and men under my command, with their names.
Faithfully, your obedient servant,
R. F. STOCKTON, Commodore, etc.
To the HON. GEORGE BANCROFT,
Secretary of the Navy, Washington, D. C.
P. S. Enclosed I have the honor to send to you a translation of the letter handed to me by the commissioners mentioned in another part of this dispatch, sent by José Ma. Flores, to negotiate peace honorable to both nations. The verbal answer, stated in another page of this letter, was sent to this renowned general and commander-in-chief. He had violated his honor, and I would not treat with him nor write to him.
General Flores’ letter is here given— [Translation.]
Civil and Military Government of the Department of California.
The undersigned, governor and commandant-general of the department, and
commander-in-chief of the national troops, has the honor to address himself
to the commander-in-chief of the naval and land forces of the United States
of North America, to say that lie has been informed by persons worthy of
credit, that it is probable at this time the differences which have altered
the relations of friendship between the Mexican republic and that of the
United States of North America have ceased, and that you looked for the news
of the arrangement between the two governments by the schooner Shark,
expected every moment on this coast.
A number of days have elapsed since the undersigned was invited by
several foreign gentlemen settled in the country, to enter into a
commuration with you, they acting as mediators, to obtain an honorable
adjustment for both forces, in consequence of the evils which all feel are
caused by the unjust war you wage; but the duty of the undersigned
prohibited him from doing so, and if to-day he steps beyond the limits
marked out by it,, it is with the confidence inspired by the hope there
exists a definitive arrangement between the two nations; for the undersigned
being animated with the strongest wishes for the return of peace, it would
be most painful to him not to have taken the means to avoid the useless
effusion of human blood and its terrible consequences, during moments when
the general peace might have been secured.
The undersigned flatters himself with this hope, and for that reason has
thought it opportune to direct to you this note, which will be placed in
your hands by Messrs. Julian Workman and Charles Fluge. who have voluntarily
offered themselves to act as mediators. But if, unfortunately, the mentioned
news should prove untrue, and you should not be disposed to grant a truce to the evils under which this unfortunate country suffers,
of which you alone are the cause, may the terrible consequences of your want
of consideration fall on your head. The citizens, all of whom compose the
national forces of this department, are decided firmly to bury themselves
under the ruins of their country, combating to the last moment, before
consenting to the tyranny and ominous discretionary power of the agents of
the government of the United States of North America.
This is no problem; different deeds of arms prove that they know how to
defend their rights on the field of battle.
The undersigned still confides you will give a satisfactory solution to
this affair, and in the mean time has the honor of offering to you the
assurance of his consideration and private esteem.
God and liberty! JOSE MA. FLORES
HEADQUARTERS AT THE ANGELES,
January 1, 1847.
General Order.
HEADQUARTERS, CIUDAD DE LOS ANGELES,
January 11, 1847.
The commander-in-chief congratulates the officers and men of tho southern
division of the United States forces in California, on the brilliant
victories obtained by them over the enemy on the 8th and 9th instants, and
on once more taking possession of the "Ciudad do los Angeles."
He takes the earliest moment to commend their gallantry and good conduct,
both in the battle fought on the 8th, on the banks of the "Rio San Gabriel,"
and on the 9th instant, on the plains of the "Mesa."
The steady courage of the troops in forcing their passage across the "Rio
San Gabriel," where officers and men were alike employed in dragging the
guns through the water against the galling fire of the enemy, without
exchanging a shot, and their gallant charge up the banks against the enemy’s
cavalry, has perhaps never been surpassed; and the cool determination with
which, in the battle of the 9th, they repulsed the charge of cavalry made by
the enemy at the same time on their front and rear, has extorted the
admiration of the enemy, and deserves the best thanks of their countrymen.
R F. STOCKTON,
Governor and Commander-in-chief of the Territory of California.
On the 14th, Colonel Fremont had arrived, and Commodore Stockton wrote as follows—
HEADQUARTERS, CIUDAD DE LOS ANGELES,
January 15, 1847.
SIR: Referring to my letter of the 11th, I have the honor to inform you
of the arrival of Lieutenant-colonel Fremont at this place, with four
hundred men—that some of the insurgents have made their escape to Sonora,
and that the rest have surrendered to our arms.
Immediately after the battles of the 8th and 9th, they began to disperse;
and I am sorry to say that their leader, José
Ma. Flores, made his escape, and that the others have been pardoned by a
capitulation agreed upon by Lieutenant-colonel Fremont.
José Ma. Flores, the commander of the
insurgent forces, two or three days previous to the 8th, sent two
commissioners with a flag of truce to my camp, to make a "treaty of peace."
I informed the commissioners that I could not recognise José
Ma. Flores, who had broken his parole, as an honorable man, or as one having
any rightful authority, or worthy to be treated with—that he was a rebel in
arms, and if I caught him I would have him shot. It seems that not being
able to negotiate with me, and having lost the battles of the 8th and 9th,
they met Colonel Fremont on the 12th instant, on his way here, who, not
knowing what had occurred, he entered into the capitulation with them, which
I now send to you; and, although I refused to do it myself, still I have
thought it best to approve it.
The territory of California is again tranquil, and the civil government
formed by me is again in operation in the places where it was interrupted by
the insurgents.
Colonel Fremont has five hundred men in his battalion, which will be
quite sufficient to preserve the peace of the territory; and I will
immediately withdraw my sailors and marines, and sail as soon as possible
for the coast of Mexico, where I hope they will give a good account of
themselves,
Faithfully, your obedient servant,
R. F. STOCKTON, Commodore, etc.
To the HON. GEORGE BANCROFT, 1
Secretary of the Navy: Washington, D. C.
City of Angels – Gardens – Vineyards – Produce of the vine in California – General products of the country – Reputed personal charms of the females of Los Angeles – San Diego – Gold and quicksilver mines – Lower California – Bituminous springs – Wines – A Kentuckian among the angels – Missions of San Gabriel and San Luis Rey – Gen. Kearny and Com. Stockton leave for San Diego – Col. Fremont appointed Governor of California by Com. Stockton – Com. Shubrick’s arrival – Insurrection in the northern part of California suppressed – Arrival of Col. Cooke at San Diego.
LA CIUDAD DE LOS ANGELES is the largest town in California, containing
between fifteen hundred and two thousand inhabitants. Its streets are laid
out without any regard to regularity. The buildings are generally
constructed of adobes one and two stories high, with flat roofs. The public
buildings are a church, quartel, and government house. Some of the
dwelling-houses are frames, and large. Few of them, interiorly or
exteriorly, have any pretensions to architectural taste, finish, or
covenience of plan and arrangement. The town is situated about 20 miles from
the ocean, in a extensive undulating plain, bounded on the north by a ridge
of elevated hills, on the east by high mountains whose summits are now
covered with snow, on the west by the ocean, and stretching to the south and
the south-east as far as the eye can reach. The Rio St. Gabriel flows near
the town. This stream is skirted with numerous vineyards and gardens,
inclosed by willow hedges. The gardens produce a great variety of tropical
fruits and plants. The yield of the vineyards is very abundant; and a large
quantity of wines of a good quality and flavour, and aguardiénte,
are manufactured here. Some of the vineyards, I understand, contain as many
as twenty thousand vines. The produce of the vine in California will,
undoubtedly, in a short time form an important item in its exports and
commerce. The soil and climate, especially of the southern portion of the
country, appear to be peculiarly adapted to the culture of the grape.
We found in Los Angeles an abundance of maize, wheat, and frijoles,
showing that the surrounding country is highly productive of these important
articles of subsistence. There are no mills, however, in this vicinity, the
universal practice of Californian families being to grind their corn by
hand; and consequently flour and bread are very scarce, and not to be
obtained in any considerable quantities. The only garden vegetables which I
saw while here were onions, potatoes, and chile colorado, or red pepper,
which enters very largely into the cuisine of the country. I do not doubt,
however, that every description of garden vegetables can be produced here,
in perfection and abundance.
While I remained at Los Angeles, I boarded with two or three other
officers at the house of a Mexican Californian, the late alcalde of the
town, whose political functions had ceased. He was a thin, delicate,
amiable, and very polite gentleman, treating us with much courtesy, for
which we paid him, when his bill was presented, a very liberal compensation.
In the morning we were served, on a common deal table, with a cup of coffee
and a plate of tortillas . At eleven o’clock, a more substantial meal was
provided, consisting of stewed beef, seasoned with chile colorado, a rib of
roasted beef, and a plate of frijoles with tortillas, and a bottle of native
wine. Our supper was a second edition of the eleven o’clock entertainment.
The town being abandoned by most of its population, and especially by the
better class of the female portion of it, those who remained, which I saw,
could not, without injustice, be considered as fair specimens of the angels,
which are reputed here to inhabit. I did not happen to see one beautiful or
even comely-looking woman in the place; but, as the fair descendants of Eve
at Los Angeles have an exalted reputation for personal charms, doubtless the
reason of the invisibility of the examples of feminine attractions, so
far-famed and so much looked for by the sojourner, is to be ascribed to
their "unavoidable absence," on account of the dangers and casualties of
war. At this time, of course, everything in regard to society, as it usually
exists here, is in a state of confusion and disorganization, and no correct
conclusions in reference to it can be drawn from observation under such
circumstances.
The bay of San Pedro, about twenty-five miles south of Los Angeles, is
the port of the town. The bay affords a good anchorage for vessels of any
size; but it is not a safe harbour at all times, as I have been informed by
experienced nautical men on this coast. San Gabriel River empties into the
bay. The mission of San Gabriel is about twelve miles east of Los Angeles.
It is represented as an extensive establishment of this kind, the lands
surrounding and belonging to it being highly fertile. The mission of San
Luis Rey is situated to the south, about midway between Los Angeles and San
Diego. This mission, according to the descriptions which I have received of
it, is more substantial and tasteful in its construction than any other in
the country; and the gardens and grounds belonging to it are now in a high
state of cultivation.
San Diego is the most southern town in Upper California . It is situated
on the Bay of San Diego, in latitude 33o
north. The country back of it is described by those who have travelled
through it as sandy and arid, and incapable of supporting any considerable
population. There are, however, it is reported on authority regarded as
reliable, rich mines of quicksilver, copper, gold, and coal, in the
neighbourhood, which, if such be the fact, will before long render the place
one of considerable importance. The harbour, next to that of San Francisco,
is the best on the Pacific coast of North America, between the Straits of
Fuca and Acapulco.
For the following interesting account of Lower California I am indebted
to Rodman M. Price, Esq., purser of the U.S. sloop-of-war Cyane, who has
been connected with most of the important events which have recently taken
place in Upper and Lower California, and whose observations and opinions are
valuable and reliable. It will be seen that the observations of Mr. Price
differ materially from the generally received opinions in reference to Lower
California.
"Burlington, N.J., June 7, 1848.
"Dear Sir, – It affords me pleasure to give you all the information I
have about Lower California, derived from personal observation at several of
its ports that I have visited, in the U. S. ship Cyane, in 1846-47.
"Cape St. Lucas, the southern extremity of the peninsula of Lower
California, is in lat. 22̊ 45' N., has a
bay that affords a good harbour and anchorage, perfectly safe nine months in
the year; but it is open to the eastward, and the hurricanes which sometimes
occur during July, August, and September, blow the strongest from the
southeast, so that vessels will not venture in the bay during the hurricane
season. I have landed twice at the Cape in a small boat, and I think a
breakwater can be built, at small cost, so as to make a safe harbour at all
seasons. Stone can be obtained with great ease from three cones of rocks
rising from the sea, and forming the extreme southerly point of the Cape,
called the Frayles. Looking to the future trade and commerce of the Pacific
Ocean, this great headland must become a most important point as a depôt
for coal and merchandise, and a most convenient location for vessels trading
on that coast to get their supplies. Mr. Ritchie, now residing there,
supplies a large number of whale-ships that cruise off the Cape, annually,
with fresh provisions, fruits, and water. The supplies are drawn from the
valley of San José twenty miles north of
the Cape, as the land in its immediate vicinity is mountainous and sterile;
but the valley of San José is extensive
and well cultivated, producing the greatest variety of vegetables and
fruits. The sweet and Irish potato, tomato, cabbage, lettuce, beans, peas,
beets, and carrots are the vegetables; oranges, lemons, bananas, plantains,
figs, dates, grapes, pomegranates, and olives are its fruits. Good beef and
mutton are cheap. A large amount of sugar-cane is grown, from which is made
panoche, a favourite sugar with the natives; it is the syrup from the cane
boiled down, and run into cakes of a pound weight, and in appearance is like
our maple-sugar.
"Panoche, cheese, olives, raisins, dried figs, and dates, put up in
ceroons of hide, with the great staples of the Californians – hides and
tallow – make the export of San José,
which is carried to San Blas and Mazatlan, on the opposite coast. This
commerce the presence of the Cyane interrupted, finding and capturing in the
Bay of La Paz, just after the receipt of the news of war on that coast in
September, 1846, sixteen small craft, laid up during the stormy season,
engaged in this trade.
"I cannot dismiss the valley of San José,
from which the crew of the Cyane have drawn so many luxuries, without
alluding to the never-failing stream of excellent water that runs through it
(to which it owes its productiveness) and empties into the Gulf here, and is
easily obtained for shipping when the surf is low. It is now frequented by
some of our whale ships, and European vessels bound to Mazatlan with cargoes
usually stop here to get instructions from their consignees before appearing
off the port; but vessels do not anchor during the three hurricane months.
The